Brunei is a small, independent Islamic sultanate located on the northern coast of the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. Brunei itself gained its independence from the British in 1984.
Nestled on the banks of the Brunei River, Bandar Seri Begawan officially became the capital of Brunei in 1920. The city dates back to the 7th century when it was known as “Bendahara” and was later known as Brunei Town (or Bandar Brunei in Malay). It was renamed in 1970 to honor the contributions of the late father of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III, Sultan Haji Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddien, who assumed the title “Seri Begawan” after he abdicated and passed the sultanate to his son.
Almost one-third of the population lives in Bandar Seri Begawan. It is a pretty sleepy city, although it is the hub of political, economic and cultural activities. The city showcases a mix of modern and traditional architecture, with structures that reflect the nation’s Islamic heritage. It is also known for its huge reserves of oil and natural gas.
The country is the only Malay Islamic Monarchy in the world with an unbroken royal lineage that has ruled the nation for the past six centuries.
Best Time to Visit
The ideal time to plan your visit to Bandar Seri Begawan is during the dry season, which falls between February and April. The weather is warm, and it is easier to walk around the city and enjoy outdoor activities.
Brunei experiences a tropical climate. The rain is common throughout the year. After the dry season, heavier rains are expected from May to October, but don’t let the weather stop you from coming here. My trip to Brunei in July was perfectly great, as it was sunny throughout my stay.
Things to be aware are the Muslim Ramadan Festival and Fridays. The Muslim people start fasting during the day during Ramadan. Most museums, eateries, supermarkets and shops will open in shorter hours. Night bazaars will open to sell food and beverages from 4 pm until late at night. During Fridays, many places are also closed or open only for certain hours.
Getting There
By Plane
Brunei International Airport (Airport Code: BWN) is the only airport in the country since it is a small nation. There are short and long-distance flights with Air Brunei direct from some Asian countries, Melbourne and London. There are also regular and cheap flights to Brunei with Air Asia from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Manila.
You can take an e-hailing car from the airport to the city center, which is about 8 kilometers away. Dartz is the only e-hailing service available in Brunei and the ride fare is very affordable, typically ranging from BND 9 to 11. You have to download the app onto your phone to book a ride, just like Uber and Bolt. The pick-up point for Dartz passengers is not in front of the arrival hall, but you have to take a 5-minute walk along a shaded path with some signage to guide you.
Taxis are also available from the airport but the fare is quite expensive. The service is hard to find in Brunei, with only 48 metered taxis operating in the country. There are no local trains from the airport and buses are not reliable here.
By Express Bus
If you are traveling from other parts of Borneo, there are buses from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, which take around 8 hours. Buses will depart from KK Sentral in Kota Kinabalu and arrive at Sipitang Express Bus Station. You can buy the ticket online here; it’s cheaper than buying from the bus driver.
By Ferry
Another option to get to Brunei is to take the ferry from Kota Kinabalu with the same time as the bus. It can be more pleasant as the journey is broken down into several parts.
You will take the ferry from Kota Kinabalu to the duty-free island of Labuan and transit for another ferry to Brunei. Then, take a local bus from the jetty to Bandar Seri Begawan.
Getting Around
It is easy to navigate around Bandar Seri Begawan. Walking is a great way to discover the sights in the city center. Many attractions are within a short walking distance. As you immerse yourself in the local atmosphere, there are many places to explore, all while being intrigued by Brunei’s rich tradition and culture.
If you want to visit places a little out of the city like the Gadong Night Market, it is best to take the Dartz car, which is widely found in Brunei. Traveling within Bandar Seri Begawan costs around BND 5-6.
The Best Activities for 3 Days in Brunei
The city of Brunei is filled with rich history, stunning architecture and amazing food. It is best to spend at least 2 days or 3 days if you have extra time to explore this small nation.
Marvel at Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is an iconic symbol of Brunei’s Islamic heritage. It was built in 1958 to be dedicated to Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III, the 28th Sultan of Brunei. The distinctive dome is covered in pure gold leaf and the minarets are made of white marble.
You can explore its exterior during the day, including the courtyard and gardens. The mosque is partly surrounded by an artificial lagoon, which makes for the most gorgeous reflections. There is a bridge connected to the Royal Barge, a stone replica of the 16th-century barge. It is only used during official ceremonies. Visiting at dusk offers a truly magical sight, as it lights up and creates a stunning silhouette against the sky.
Then, step inside to see the intricate details and a serene atmosphere that showcase traditional craftsmanship. You can walk around the small area to view the dome and the prayer hall. The mosque can accommodate 3,000 worshippers in the main prayer hall.
Travel Tips: Don’t forget to dress modestly out of respect. They have loaner cloaks for both men and women to wear inside.
Location: Jalan McArthur, Bandar Seri Begawan
Opening Hours: Saturday to Thursday: 8.30 am to 12 pm, 1.30 pm to 3 pm and 4.30 pm to 5.30 pm/ Friday: 4.30 pm to 5.30 pm
Entrance Fee: Free
Visit Brunei History Center
Fill up your touristy day with a visit to the Brunei History Center. Established in 1982, the museum provides insights into Brunei’s past, including the royal lineage and cultural evolution. There is a vast collection of historical documents, manuscripts and publications.
The exhibits also showcase the history of the British rule in Brunei and the neighboring state of Sarawak in Malaysia until its independence, that helped to shape the nation throughout the centuries.
Location: Jln James Pearce, Bandar Seri Begawan
Opening Hours: Saturday and Monday to Thursday: 9 am to 4.15 pm/ Sunday: 9 am to 12 pm
Entrance Fee: Free
Visit Royal Regalia Museum
Just next door to Brunei History Center is the popular Regalia Museum. This grand museum houses a collection of items from the royal family, including a colorful royal chariot, a gold and silver ceremonial armory, jewel-encrusted crowns used during coronations, and gifts given to the family from countries around the world.
Be sure to spend enough time to learn the local customs and traditions, as there’s a wealth of history packed into the impressive museum. Each exhibit tells a story, offering unique insights into the nation’s monarchy and culture.
Location: Jln Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien, Bandar Seri Begawan
Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday and Saturday: 9 am to 5 pm/ Sunday: 8.30 am to 4.30 pm
Entrance Fee: BND 5
Visit Tokong Chinese Temple
Established in the 1960s, Teng Yun Temple is the oldest Chinese temple in Brunei. It has been a sanctuary to devotees in the Chinese community. The peaceful ambience welcomes visitors seeking spiritual solace or a moment of reflection.
One can appreciate the diverse cultures and religions that coexist in Brunei, making it a pleasant experience.
The ornate Taoist temple has beautiful, bright red walls and a green roof. You can smell the strong fragrance of the smoke from smouldering joss sticks as you walk inside the temple. The interior is decorated with murals and hand-painted tiles depicting Chinese legends.
During the Lunar New Year, locals and visitors flock to the temple to witness the excitement of the lion dance performances.
Location: Jalan Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan
Opening Hours: 24 hours
Get an Instagram photo of Big Wall Brunei
Tucked behind a tall white building is a bright and cheerful mural that welcomes you to the lovely country. The wonderful piece of art lies at the corner of Jalan Pretty, Jalan Roberts and Jalan McArthur.
The mural was created by Guerrilla Architecture Studio and was completed in January 2021 as part of the Jalan Roberts Pedestrian Project to “live up sections of the capital”.
The colors and design are symbolic and the mural represents the rainforest and the vivid colors of Kampong Ayer. There are also cool paintings of local merchant boats on the ground.
There is also a colorful row of buildings across the street. What a great way to brighten the city street.
Location: Jalan Roberts, Bandar Seri Begawan
Get a picturesque of BIBD Frame
This huge BIBD Frame is easily noticeable when walking around Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas Park. What a great way to create a perfect Brunei memory trip with an Instagrammable picture with the mosque!
Location: Jalan Masjid Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien, Bandar Seri Begawan
Embarking on a journey to Kampong Ayer
Kampong Ayer, also known as the Water Village, is a traditional village built on stilts over the Brunei River. Often referred to as the “Venice of the East”, it is the largest water village in the world, connected by over 38 kilometers of boardwalks and bridges with hundreds of turns within.
Many families have been staying here for generations with over 10,000 inhabitants. The village is believed to be the original settlement area of the sea nomads in Brunei over a millennium ago. Nibung palm, mangrove trees, bulian and nipah leaves were used to build the adhesives, roofing and walls. The locals made their living through fishing, handicraft, wood collecting, boat building and cloth weaving.
As you walk along Kampund Ayer, you’ll be amazed by its unique designs and the colors of the wooden houses. Some are painted in flamboyant or bright colors. The community has primary and secondary schools, a hospital, a police and fire station, gyms and mosques.
Al-Muhtadee Billah Mosque is the prime place of worship with a golden dome and white rooftop. It has a stunning backdrop of the forest and blue sky. It was named after Sultan Bolkiah’s eldest son, who is first in line for succession to the throne.
Stay back if you may (or after returning from Mangrove River Cruise like I did) to have a wonderful dinner at Adrestol, which opens daily from 6.00 pm to 10 pm except Sundays from 11 am. This family-run restaurant served true, authentic food from Brunei, such as Ambuyat, Soto Special, Nasi Ayam Penyet and the famous Nasi Katok.
My dinner is the traditional Ambuyat set that comes with 2 cacah (fermented dipping mango sauce and mango mixed with durian sauce), Daging Kunyit (beef), Ikan Goreng (Fried Fish), Sambal Tahai and vegetable.
To get to the Kampong Ayer, you can take the water taxi (Perahu Tambang) from the pier. Many boat drivers offer a ride to the floating village for just BND 1-2 per trip and they are available 24 hours every day.
Venture into the wild with Monkey River Cruise
One of the best escapes from the bustling city is to take a river cruise from Bandar Seri Begawan. The sound of the city quickly faded away as you leave the shores. The boat guide will take you through the serene jungle, surrounded by the relentless hum of cicadas and screeching monkeys.
It is most likely to encounter with the adorable proboscis monkeys, macaques, crocodiles and a wide range of exotic birds.
You are definitely in luck by spotting these Proboscis monkeys,. These indigeneous creatures are one of the endangered species found living in the wild of the Borneo rainforest. These monkeys have protruding, bulbous noses and reddish-brown hair. Their pot bellies and curious expressions make them quite endearing to watch. The best way to differentiate their gender is by looking at the nose size. The male monkey has a droopier nose that extends well past its mouth.
They usually travel in groups along the mid-tree to canopy-level. Some groups consist of the local alpha male, his female harem and their young offspring that clutch onto the mother until a certain age. Another group are the “beta males,” who stay closely together.
Take a glimpse of Istana Nurul Iman
Istana Nurul Iman is the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei. The Sultan’s home is the largest residential palace in the world as the compound has nearly 1,800 rooms, including 257 bathrooms, a 110-car garage and five pools.
One of the places to view the palace is from the river during the Mangrove River Cruise.
The only occasion for visitors to enter the palace is during the three-day celebration of Hari Raya Aidifiltri. It’s a rare opportunity to see the interior as well as meet the royal family.
Explore Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque
Located in the Muara district, Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is one of the largest mosques in Southeast Asia. It was built to commemorate the 25th year of the reign of Sultan Hassanil Bolkiah, the 29th Sultan of Brunei, when he was inaugurated on July 14, 1994.
The mosque boasts a blend of traditional and modern Islamic architectural styles. It is striking with multiple minarets and 29-golden dome to honor the 29th Sultan of Brunei. They used only the finest materials imported from other countries- Philippine hardwood, Italian marble, Persian carpets, and of course, real gold.
The spacious Jame’ Asr Mosque is massive enough to accommodate 4,000 worshippers at a time. The expansion prayer halls and landscaped gardens provide a serene atmosphere.
Travel Tips: Visitors must dress modestly and wear robes inside the mosque. Shoes have to be removed before entering. Photography of people in prayer is not allowed.
Location: Simpang 127, Bandar Seri Begawan
Opening Hours: Saturday to Thursday: 8 am to 11.30 pm and 2 pm to 3 pm
Entrance Fee: Free
Eat your way through Gadong Night Market
Are you craving for food after a long day walk?
As the sun sets, the vibrant Gadong Night Market comes alive with stalls selling a variety of street food. It is a haven for food lovers to indulge in local flavors. The locals often set foot onto the night market after work at 4 pm to look for great food.
So, do come hungry.
One of the favorite food among the locals is the famous Nasi Katok. It is cheap and delicious, costs only BND 1.50- 4.00, depending on the ingredients you add on. The original Nasi Katok is commonly served with rice and a piece of chicken; however some vendors sell it with lamb.
Other delicacies found in Gadong Night Market are a variety of fried popiah (vegetarian, chicken, prawn or beef), Tauhu (fried tofu with vegetable or beef), barbeque fish, Bosko Brunei and different type of Malay kuih.
Location: Simpang 37, Bandar Seri Begawan
Opening Hours: Daily from 4 pm to 9 pm
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